The Way of St. James: Vrhnika - Planina
The spirit of literature and distant history, as well as one of the most picturesque karst fields in Slovenia.
Step by Step: A Guide to the Way
From the crossroads in Vrhnika with the monument to the writer Ivan Cankar, you walk in the direction of the writer's birthplace, which has been converted into a museum. A little way before you reach it, the path begins to ascend – you are now on the famous hill, scene of one of the central stories in Cankar's famous novel, On the Hill.
A short but very steep ascent takes you to a well-kept park, at the end of which you find the late-Renaissance Church of the Holy Trinity, surrounded by chapels of the Way of the Cross in the shade of the surrounding trees. This is what Cankar wrote about the church: "White as a bride, the Holy Trinity shines on the hill, looking out over the sunny plain, over the silent, dreamy marsh, towards Žalostna gora and Krim."
The path continues mainly along forest trails until it joins the old "tank" road, which was once used to drive the tanks of the then Yugoslav People's Army (JLA) from the Vrhnika barracks. If you see a lot of parked cars next to it, it will be because this is one of the starting points for Planina nad Vrhniko, a popular hiking destination with a lookout tower and mountain cottage.
After descending down the "tank" road, you will reach a wide gravel road. You will soon be walking in the pleasant shade of trees along the Bela stream. The road is mainly flat, ascending only gradually at times. At the turnoff for Star maln, we recommend a short "detour" to the cottage (when open, it offers food and drink) and the "pool", which is a popular natural swimming pool in the summer.
From here you will encounter a relatively steep climb to the village of Strmica. The path through the settlement quickly has you back in the forest. Until Logatec, the trail leaves the forest only once, when you cross the road between Logatec and Vrhnika. You will be walking either on comfortable gravel roads or on winding forest paths.
In Logatec, the Way of St. James will initially take you through streets among residential buildings, and past the Church of St. Nicholas; its architecture showing an interesting transition from baroque to classicism. From here you will walk along the road in the direction of Rakek until the path invites you back into the forest. You will walk on paths, carriageways, and macadam roads, with gentle climbs and descents. The forest will be your companion for a long time, especially if you choose a variant of the Way of St. James that avoids Planinsko polje due to flooding.
You will be alerted to this variant by the signposts for the Way of St. James at the crossroads of the macadam roads above the village of Grčarevec.
If you go straight, you will follow the original version of the route that takes you towards Laze and across the Planinsko polje field towards Planina. This route offers a pleasant walk on the plain and the experience of one of the most beautiful short fields in Slovenia. Due to the extraordinary variety of flora and fauna, the Planinsko polje field is included in the European network of Natura 2000 protected areas.
If you go to the right (notation on the Way of St. James singpost: variant), you will descend towards Grčarevec, from where you will climb into the forest above the road that leads to Planina. This way you bypass the Planinsko polje field. This route is slightly longer and ascends higher, with some quite steep climbs on fairly demanding terrain. It is also less scenic, as it is mostly covered by trees. It leads primarily along macadam roads, and partly along forest carriageways and narrow paths. Grčarevac is also one of the entry points to the Planinsko polje Landscape Park, which will be pointed out to you by an interpretation board by the side of the road. With this variant, the Way of St. James ends at the Church of St. Mary; you descend to Planina along a well-kept and marked mountain trail.
Regardless of which route you take to Planina, you end the Way of St. James at the baroque Church of St. Margaret, the special feature of which is that the bell tower is separate from the church building.
- A little further from the junction where you start walking, you will notice a signpost for the Way of St. James that does not direct you up the hill, but to a gently sloping alley on the left. Because the original Way of St. James goes up to the Church of the Holy Trinity, and since this part of the route is extremely beautiful, we strongly recommend that you take it.
- When you cross the road between Vrhnika and Logatec, you will notice a warning on the wall of the railway overpass that says you are in an area where there could be bears. If you are walking alone on lonely forest paths, it is recommended to sing to yourself from time to time or to hang a bell on your backpack that will alert the wildlife to your presence. This warning applies to the entire route towards Planina.
- If you are going to walk along the path that bypasses the Planinsko polje field, pay attention when you reach the Church of St. Mary, as there will be a signpost for the Way of St. James, as well as a signpost indicating the distance to Santiago de Compostela (2860 km!). So, the well-kept and marked mountain path that comes down from Mount Grmada (Planinska gora) leads straight down to Planina, while the Way of St. James, which continues towards Trieste, leads to the right and does not descend.
- For information about the flooding situation in the Planinsko polje field, call the Logatec Municipality on: +386 1 7590600 or write an e-mail to: [email protected]
The route starts at the crossroads in Vrhnika where the Cankar monument is located.
If you are traveling to the starting point of the route from Ljubljana: line no. 47 of the Ljubljana public transport system, Ljubljana-Vrhnika, runs between the two cities. The crossroads where the route starts is near the bus station.
If you want to return from Planina to Vrhnika or Ljubljana, there is an intercity bus line running between the cities several times a day.
Points of Interest Around the Church of St. Margaret
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Parks and nature
1.2 km
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This route is part of the Way of St. James from Slovenska vas to Trieste in Italy.
You start your journey in a literary spirit; in Vrhnika, birthplace of Ivan Cankar, the greatest Slovenian writer. The town itself also boasts a long history; its origin described in an ancient Greek tale. For the rest of the route you can enjoy wide, lonely forests that wind towards the final destination, Planinsko polje, one of the most beautiful and picturesque karst fields in Slovenia.