Šmarna Gora via Pot čez Peske

To Ljubljana’s favourite viewpoint via one of the oldest routes

Šmarna Gora, Ljubljana’s highest (and most popular) hill, is criss-crossed by numerous hiking trails. Among the oldest of them is the pleasant and varied Pot čez Peske (literally: path over the sands), which is never too steep or exposed and one of the few routes easily passable along its entire length even after heavy rain. When you reach the summit of Šmarna Gora, crowned by its picturesque church, take the time to enjoy the wonderful views it offers, especially in fine weather. Treat yourself to lunch or a snack in the hilltop gostilna, famous for its good Slovene cooking. This is certainly one place that is well worth the climb!

Around a dozen routes lead to the summit of Šmarna Gora from various starting points – including Pot čez Peske, one of the oldest routes. It takes its name from the limestone gravel which, a century ago, local women used to dig here and sell at the market as a product for scouring burnt food from metal cookware.

It is also one of the “friendliest” routes up Šmarna Gora: never too exposed, with no steep slopes, pleasant to walk on even after rain (when many of the other routes are muddy) and also very varied in its first section.

This waymarked hiking trail begins in a wood at the edge of a meadow and fields. It begins as a gently rising, broad comfortable path with some rocky sections and frequent tree roots but soon turns onto an increasingly narrow path that starts to climb slightly more steeply. The ground becomes increasingly sandy as the path passes over rocks and roots and in places through a fairly deep gully. This is the steepest and at the same time most disjointed section of the route.

As the path widens and levels out, it joins the wide macadam road from the village of Zavrh that provides vehicular access to Šmarna Gora. At this point a hiking board directs you to the right, past the “Turk’s Shrine”, commemorating the period of Ottoman incursions. The road now climbs up gently through a wood, which then opens up. On the left is the “Gorjanc Chapel”, a wayside shrine built at the same time as the nearby Gorjanc farmhouse; as with the other wayside shrines on Šmarna Gora, the custom of placing small crosses still survives here. The route now takes you through pastureland, with views opening up towards the Kamnik-Savinja Alps and, eventually, the Julian Alps with Triglav. After passing a group of buildings on which a faded sign tells you that there was once an inn here, you come to a saddle where the path joins those from Tacen, Šmartno or Vikrče (over Grmada). Continue to the fork, where there are two options for the ascent to the summit: either continue along the macadam road or enter the forest and ascend the narrower, rockier and steeper path that leads past the wayside chapel dedicated to the Holy Sabbath. Our recommendation is to go up by this latter route and come down by the other, gentler route.

Once at the summit of Šmarna Gora, it is worth taking time in fine weather to enjoy the wonderful views of Ljubljana, the river Sava, the surrounding hills and the Alps beyond. Rest in the shelter of the pilgrimage church; numerous tables and benches are available beneath its walls. Treat yourself to a snack or lunch from Gostilna Ledinek, with a menu consisting of traditional Slovene dishes.

Below the church is a children’s playground and an open-air fitness area. Before going back down the hill you can ring a bell for good luck – St Anthony’s Bell just below the summit is also known as the “wishing bell”.

Descent

Same route as the ascent.

Starting point

Spodnje Pirniče (12 km from Ljubljana city centre): Camper Stop & Village Lipa car park – parking charge: 2 euros for the whole day (single price). A snack bar and small holiday house village are located here. From the car park go through the green gateway and turn left onto the track leading into the forest, where the marked hiking trail begins.