Šmarna Gora – Combination: Route via Spodnja Kuhinja + Path of Freedom + Ascent from the Turk’s Shrine

Kapelica Žalostne matere božje na poti na Šmarno goro.

For explorers: Šmarna Gora combination

Šmarna Gora, Ljubljana’s highest (and most popular) hill, is criss-crossed by numerous hiking trails. There are so many of them that sooner or later they meet others, either crossing them or joining them. This means that even regular visitors can take a slightly different route up the hill each time, following different paths. This is particularly welcome on fine weekends when Gora (“the Mountain”), as locals call it, can get very busy. Understandably. . . The summit of Šmarna Gora offers wonderful views and also a traditional restaurant or gostilna with excellent Slovene cooking. This is certainly one place that is well worth the climb!

Around a dozen routes lead to the summit of Šmarna Gora from various starting points. This particular excursion is a combination of different routes and an example of how it is possible to vary or even extend an ascent of the hill while discovering its lesser known slopes and avoiding the crowds at the busiest times.

We will start with the most popular trail, the route via Spodnja Kuhinja (Pot čez Spodnjo Kuhinjo) and then continue on the largely secluded Path of Freedom (Pot svobode), which actually circles the hill, and then continue up to the summit via one of the least used trails, on the slope facing the Gorenjska region.

The Spodnja Kuhinja route (also known as “Path over the Roots”) begins behind a group of houses with a brief flight of stone steps leading into the forest. You start off climbing a relatively steep but well-maintained path, which widens and levels out after the first uphill section (Spodnja Kuhinja). Continue straight on and the terrain becomes steeper again and more rocky. When you reach the point where the path is crossed by a broad, gently sloping track, leave the Spodnja Kuhinja route and turn right onto the Path of Freedom (past the bench). This path is marked by the letter S, usually next to a waymark, although here you are led to it by a yellow arrow, which is also a frequent indication on this route. Follow the path, where gently sloping sections alternate with moderate up and down sections, to a crossroads, where you will see a wayside shrine dedicated to Our Lady of Sorrows slightly higher up on the left. The Path of Freedom turns towards it. At this point there is also a board with an indication of the route and an arrow directing you to the right, above the shrine, onto a narrower track that is for the most part gently sloping. This track, which alternately widens and narrows, runs partly through forest and partly across more open terrain consisting of shrubland and grassland, where Alpine flowers bloom from spring to autumn. This is the easiest part of the route, where you will only rarely meet other hikers. There are also views to enjoy here: of Šmartno down in the valley, of Rašica and of the Kamnik-Savinja Alps.

After a brief descent, the path starts to climb increasingly steeply and the terrain becomes rockier, until you reach the Turk’s Shrine (which according to legend was erected by an Ottoman Turk who converted to Christianity at the time of the Ottoman incursions and married in Šmartno). Here a faded signpost points you to a steep but well maintained trail over rocks and roots. When the trail starts to level out, you are met with a choice of two routes: if you take the one on the right you will emerge from the forest just below the image of St Anthony the Hermit and the “wishing bell”; the other ends slightly higher up by the fitness area and children’s playground. Go past here and the summit is just a couple of minutes further up.

Once at the summit of Šmarna Gora, it is worth taking time in fine weather to enjoy the wonderful views of Ljubljana, the river Sava, the surrounding hills and the Alps beyond. Rest in the shelter of the pilgrimage church; numerous tables and benches are available beneath its walls – and treat yourself to a snack or lunch from Gostilna Ledinek, with a menu consisting of traditional Slovene dishes.

Descent

Follow the Spodnja Kuhinja route.

Starting point

Tacen (approx. 8 km from the centre of Ljubljana): car park by the bridge over the Sava – car parking charges: 60 cents for the first two hours, then 60 cents for each subsequent hour. You can also get here by LPP city buses numbers 1, 8 and 15 – the first two services are more frequent. The stop for numbers 1 and 8 is on the other side of the car park, across the road, while the number 15 stops by the car park. Buses back towards the city all leave from the same stop, right next to the Sava bridge.

From the car park, from where you get a fine view of Šmarna Gora and its neighbour Grmada, walk along the pavement (to the right) until you see the first hiking trail waymark, fixed to the pole of a street light. Turn right here (into Thurnova ulica) and continue past Gostilna Grad. Then turn right again and then immediately left into Šturmova ulica. Turn left at the end of this street and just a few metres further on you will find yourself at the start of the uphill climb.