Lakes in the Greater Ljubljana Region

On rainy days, there are all sorts of indoor options, from museums to shopping to trampoline parks to food, wine, beer, and coffee tastings. But when the sun is out, I recommend that you do as the locals will—head to one of the parks or lakes in Ljubljana’s surroundings.

Before we were inundated with entertainment options at every turn, say fifty-plus years ago or dating as far back as you like, the answer to the question of what to do when it’s nice out was to head to a lake. This would once have featured long, romantic strolls and cups of tea taken in the shade of a lakeside willow tree. But you don’t have to pull your corsets and britches out of your suitcase—today you can enjoy the lakes in your swimsuits and flipflops.

One of the many things I love about Slovenia is that most of the country enthusiastically engages with the outdoors whenever possible. We’re blessed with truly spectacular nature, from the cliffs of three alpine mountain ranges (the Julian Alps, the Karawanks, and the Kamnik-Savinja Alps) to plains, rolling hills, and the seaside, you’ll find Slovenes out enjoying their countryside all year round. This may take the form of cycling, hiking, jogging, skiing, cross-country skiing, swimming…the list goes on. For an American from a city, like me, it was eye-opening and a joy to see how outdoorsy Slovenes are.

In fine weather, bodies of water are what call to us. This could be in the form of rivers or the sea, but today I want to tell you about four lakes that are all within the greater Ljubljana region. That means they’re just a short drive (we’re talking less than thirty minutes, sometimes way less) from the center of the capital.

Swimming is one of the items on the menu here, of course. But there’s also walking around the lake, a satisfying activity that gives you a sense of completion without exhausting you as circumnavigation is usually on flat terrain. Fishing is popular if you’re into it, and you can always rent equipment (presuming you didn’t pack your three-meter-long fishing pole in your carryon luggage). Bird watching and well-marked nature trails can regularly be found around lakes. And then there’s the delight of just grabbing a beer at a lakeside café, watching the rippling water, the odd falcon cresting the sky, feeling the gentle breeze. There’s much to be said for doing not much at all, just being and enjoying life. And there’s something extra relaxing about chilling next to a beautiful body of water.

There are four lakes that I’ll recommend to you in the greater Ljubljana region. Two of them are natural, while two are man-made.

Lake Zbilje

Lake Zbilje was created in 1953, when the Sava River was dammed in order to harness its power for a hydroelectric station in the town of Medvode, just north of Ljubljana. The lake became a haven for birds, and a popular place for Ljubljana residents to relax on a sunny weekend. You can rent a boat, sip a coffee at one of the lakeside cafes, or take a short hike up a hill overlooking the lake, 515 meters in elevation, to visit the ruins of what was once Smlednik Castle. On your way, you can crisscross a Way of the Cross, visiting 14 chapels as you go, and see the lake from above.

Gradišče Lake

Gradišče Lake, near the town of Gradišče, was built as a retention basin—it effectively keeps water away from the highway that runs between Ljubljana and Maribor, protecting it from flooding. It’s a 4.2 kilometer walk to circumnavigate the lake, and no motor vehicles are allowed, which means it’s ideal for a stroll, jog, or bike ride. A 60-kilometer trail passes the lake. The trail, called Rokovnjac Path, is named after a band of Napoleonic era deserter soldiers who were Robin Hood-like bandits roaming central Slovenia, disappearing into the forests after robbing the rich. (Whether or not they then gave to the poor is still open to debate).

A pair of castles, now ruins, overlook the lake: Gradišče Castle and Rožek Castle. Legend has it that the baron who lived in Gradišče Castle was obliged to sacrifice his daughter to a hungry dragon who lived by the lake. But then a beggar appeared, who killed the dragon and received the daughter’s hand in marriage as his reward.

A second legend tells of a natural lake having once stood here. The baron from Gradišče Castle used to have to ride around the lake to visit his friend, the baron of Rožek Castle. The barons asked their serfs to dig a channel that would drain the lake’s water, giving them a pasture for their herds and a more direct route for their visits. If this legend were true, then the ghosts of these barons must have been rather annoyed when this new, manmade lake was installed!

Rakitna Lake

The natural lake called Rakitna stands on a karst plateau 800 meters above sea level. This is a spot that has been renowned for its healthy air, as it is where Mediterranean and Alpine air currents cross paths. Taking the air here is meant to be so good for you that a wellness resort for children was established there.

This is a popular spot for fishing, with carp, perch, and trout all on the menu. In winter, the lake freezes over and is suitable for ice skating. A 40-minute walk will take you around the lake, but if you’re a history buff, like I am, then you can join a 90-minute archaeological trail that winds past a 3rd century CE Roman defensive tower and wall.

Podpeč Lake

Podpeč Lake (“Under the Oven Lake”—I enjoy attempting to translate Slovenian place names, with my translations not necessarily accurate or relevant to actual history) is an almost perfectly round, natural lake on the edge of the Ljubljana Marshes. It is surprisingly deep—51 meters, in fact, and is filled by fresh water from seven karst springs that flow from the nearby woods. The water fills but then flows out through a sinkhole at the bottom of the lake.

On a warm summer’s day, you’ll find many locals swimming here, fishing for carp, pike, chub, and bass. Several trails can take you up from the lakeside to nearby hills. If you’re with children or want a more leisurely hike, then St. Anne Hill will be your best option, as it’s surmounted in just 30 minutes. For hardcore hikers, there are mountain trails taking you up to Planinca, a wooded settlement 579 meters high, on your way to Mount Krim (1107 meters high).

There are 321 lakes in Slovenia, and access to water is an important aspect of the country. Slovenia is, in fact, the only country where the right to fresh drinking water and access to water is enshrined in the Constitution. Any body of freshwater must be accessible to the public, which means no private lakeside houses with off-limits beaches. Next time you visit Ljubljana, take advantage of the beautiful lakes that are a very easy, short drive from the city center.

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