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Route 8: Kamnik–Smlednik

A plain with meadows and forests.

© Mateja Gruden

From a historic city in the embrace of the Alps, and across broad plains.

This route is part of the Way of St. James and follows the Prekmurje–Štajerska branch from Kobilje to Ljubljana.

The picturesque old town of Kamnik, one of the most beautiful medieval towns in Slovenia. Carefree walking through forests and long dusty roads among vast fields, with a view of the Alps and of the highest peak in Slovenia – Triglav. A surprise on the way: the Church of St. Anne, a stunning sacral gem that suddenly appears before your eyes. Following the creative footsteps of the greatest Slovenian architect – Jože Plečnik. A few ascents and lots of easy walking on broad plains, where your thoughts can easily wander.

Step by Step: A Guide to the Way

You start your journey at the beginning of the most beautiful street in Kamnik – Šutna, which used to be a lively craftsman's area and is next to the Evropa Park. From there you climb up to the Church of St. Joseph on Žale, next to which is one of the few cemeteries in Slovenia that is still named in Old Slovene: žale. You walk past the picturesque chapels of the Stations of the Cross along a road soon embraced by the shade of the treetops, and through a settlement, where the road eventually turns into a forest path. When you step out of the forest and into a village you will be able to enjoy the view of the hills and mountains in the hinterland of Kamnik.

Along the road, you will climb gently past meadows and pastures and traverse the forest, where you will soon encounter stone steps. These will lead you to the beautiful baroque Church of St. Anne, which stands alone on a hill above the valley. The greatest Slovenian architect, Jože Plečnik, also left a small mark on it. He completed the church's side entrances.

From here, you go down to the crossroads, where you leave the road that leads to the Tunjica Medicinal Grove, known for its beneficial energy centres and living water spring. The road then gradually turns into a leisurely forest path with almost no ups and downs. You will leave the forest in the hinterland of Komenda, where the Way of St. James will take you along the road to the baroque Church of St. Peter. Here too there are traces of Plečnik's legacy. The surroundings of the church were arranged according to his plans, and as part of this arrangement, a Eucharistic beacon and a monument to those who fell in the First World War were erected in the courtyard.

Once in Komenda, you then begin a longer stretch of walking along the plain of the Ljubljana basin. You will walk across meadows and fields, and through forests. On nice days, the Julian Alps, with Mount Triglav, the Kamnik-Savinje Alps, and some of the Karawanks, can also be seen on the horizon.

After a long, carefree hike across the plain, you arrive in Vodice. The path leads past the Church of St. Margaret, with its mighty bell tower, and some houses, towards the forest. At the fork in the trail, where you turn left onto the dirt road towards the underpass under the highway, you can take the opportunity to rest on the bench next to the crucifix on the edge of the forest which, on nice days, offers pleasant warmth in the sun. From here, you will walk along macadam roads, field carriageways, and through the forest, past houses and homesteads. The route is not far from the village of Zapoge, where you can find the Church of St. Nicholas, which boasts one of the oldest organs in Slovenia. Just a stone's throw away there's also the small Church of St. James, standing alone at the edge of the field. According to legend, the church was built in the village (Hraše), but did not want to stay there.

Here, from the path, you can already see the remains of Smlednik Castle on the hill. When you arrive in Smlednik, you will also see the Stations of the Cross, the Calvary, which is considered one of the most beautiful baroque creations of its kind in Slovenia.

This route of the Way of St. James ends at the crossroads, where there is a tourist map of Smlednik, wooden sculptures commemorating peasant revolts, and a drinking fountain. If you still have some strength and willpower left (or want a suggestion for the next day), we recommend climbing to the remains of Smlednik Castle, which has been preserved as the purest development of the design and form of a medium-sized medieval castle in Central Slovenia. Near Smlednik (2 km away) you can also find Lake Zbilje, a popular excursion spot in the hinterland of Ljubljana.

The route starts at the beginning of Šutna in Kamnik, next to Evropa Park.

If you are traveling to the starting point from Ljubljana, it is best to board a train or bus at the main train/bus station in Ljubljana and get off at the Kamnik Mesto train station or the main bus station in Kamnik, both of which are near the start of the route.
If you want to travel from Smlednik to Ljubljana, there is a bus stop (Valburga) at the end of the route. Using Ljubljana's public transport system (LPP), namely bus line no. 30, you can go to Medvode, and from there by train, or LPP bus line no. 25, to Ljubljana.

Points of Interest Around the Peasant Revolt Monument in Smlednik

Details

  • Distance 21000m

  • Duration 5:40h

  • Ascent 220m